Fabric losses were disrupting garment production.
Shrinkage variance had reached 8%, against the 3% tolerance required by this manufacturer’s EU retail buyers. Fabric write-offs stood at 14%.
Two previous suppliers missed delivery windows, stopping production lines for six and nine days. Without a verified mill shortlist, the manufacturer needed a more dependable basis for its next orders.
- The buyer
- A Casablanca garment manufacturer with 320 employees, producing approximately 40,000 garments a month for EU retail chains. Its annual fabric procurement budget was approximately $450,000.
- The fabric brief
- Cotton jersey at 180–220 gsm, French terry and fleece (Molleton), in custom colorways: 12 fabric references across four seasonal programs.
Compare mills against the fabric the buyer actually needs.
Capacity, test results, price and lead time belonged in the same decision. We brought them together before the buyer selected mills for the first purchase order.
Screen a 14-mill longlist
We checked capacity against a minimum of 20 tons per month and carried out GOTS and OEKO-TEX certification checks.
Test all 12 fabric references
We coordinated three sampling rounds and shrinkage testing using ISO 6330 washing and drying procedures, against the buyer-approved criteria.
Negotiate delivery and volume terms
Lead times were negotiated to 28–30 days, with volume-based price breaks at 15 and 30 tons.
Put the strongest options side by side
A price, quality and lead-time matrix ranked the top five mills and included a recommendation for the buyer’s decision.
Three approvals before the first purchase order.
- The purchasing director approved the 14-mill longlist.
- The buyer approved shrinkage ≤3% and colorfastness ≥4 as the project’s test criteria.
- The final selection of three mills was approved before the first purchase order.
The records behind the decision
- Supplier comparison matrix.
- Mill audit notes and ISO 6330 test reports.
- Negotiated price schedule with volume tiers.
Client identity, supplier contacts and confidential commercial terms are withheld from this public project record.
Less fabric lost.
More dependable production.
Three mills were approved. Unit fabric cost fell by 11%, with approximately $49,500 in annual savings recorded. Lead times stabilized at four weeks, with no line stoppages in the following two seasons.
- Fabric write-offs
Previously 14% - 3%
- Shrinkage variance
Previously 8% - 2.4%
What this project shows
A lower fabric price only helps if the material meets the production requirement. Testing every fabric reference, comparing mill capacity and securing delivery terms gave this buyer a stronger basis for repeat orders. These results belong to this project; new fabrics and orders need their own assessment.
Agree what a passing sample means.
A usable fabric brief connects the material, the test conditions and the garment program. It lets suppliers quote against the same requirements and gives the buyer a clear reference for approval.
ISO 6330 describes domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing. Agree the applicable procedure and acceptance limits for your fabric; the 3% limit above was this buyer’s requirement.
For certificate checks, use the GOTS supplier database with the scope certificate, and OEKO-TEX Label Check with the label number.
- Fabric and color
- Composition, construction, weight in gsm, width, finish, color references and quantity by fabric and colorway.
- Sample and testing
- Approved reference, required tests, washing and drying conditions, acceptance limits and the reports needed before production approval.
- Certificates and scope
- Check current supplier and product coverage, document validity and any shipment-specific evidence. Match the scope certificate and label details to the material being offered.
- Production and delivery
- Seasonal program, delivery destination, required arrival date, order schedule and budget. Compare capacity, lead time and volume-price tiers together.
Support for your next fabric decision
- Product sample coordination
Compare samples and document the reference approved for production.
- Quality-control coordination
Define checks and review findings against the agreed product specification.
Explore sourcing support for Morocco or supplier verification for a new or existing mill.
