Why apparel specs drift without a tech pack
Apparel is one of the easiest categories to source badly, because a garment can look correct in a photo while failing on fabric weight, fit, or colorfastness once it's in your hands. A proper tech pack — flat sketches, a full bill of materials, GSM (grams per square meter) fabric weight, fiber content percentage, and a measurement chart with tolerance ranges — is what keeps a factory building the garment you approved rather than their own interpretation of it.
Without one, small substitutions creep in: a lighter fabric weight to save cost, a slightly different thread color, a construction shortcut on seams that don't show in a quick inspection but affect durability after a few washes. None of these show up until units are already in a customer's hands.
What information, documents or prerequisites are needed before starting?
- Fabric composition and weight. Confirm fiber content (e.g. 95% cotton / 5% elastane) and GSM in writing — the same "cotton t-shirt" can be built from fabric ranging widely in GSM with very different hand-feel and cost.
- Shrinkage and wash testing. Cotton and cotton blends commonly shrink around 3-5% after the first wash. A garment fitted before wash testing can run noticeably small once it reaches the customer.
- Size grading and fit sample. Approve one physical fit sample in your base size before grading to the full size range — grading rules (how much each measurement point changes per size) vary by factory and can drift from your intended fit curve.
- Dye-lot consistency. Large orders often run across multiple dye lots. Request a dye-lot consistency check so cartons from the same PO don't ship with visibly different shades.
MOQ realities by construction type
MOQ varies sharply by how the garment is built. Basic cut-and-sew knitwear (t-shirts, simple tops) can start as low as a few hundred pieces per color/size combination at some factories. Anything requiring custom fabric (a mill-woven print or a custom knit) usually forces a much higher MOQ, often 500-1,000+ meters of fabric minimum before the factory will even cut it, because the mill itself has a minimum run. Embroidery and specialty trims (custom zippers, branded buttons) add their own separate minimums on top of the garment MOQ.
Buyers testing a new design should ask specifically whether a factory can produce from stock fabric (lower MOQ, faster) versus custom fabric (higher MOQ, longer lead time, better cost at volume) before committing to either path. See Understanding MOQ for the broader mechanics behind minimum order quantities.
Compliance and labeling
- Fiber content and care labeling. Most destination markets legally require fiber content percentage and country-of-origin disclosed on a permanent label, plus wash-care symbols — confirm the supplier's label meets your destination country's exact format.
- Flammability standards. Children's sleepwear and some upholstered goods carry specific flammability testing requirements that differ from general apparel — confirm whether your product category is affected before production.
- Children's apparel testing. Kids' clothing typically requires additional testing for lead content, phthalates, and small-parts/drawstring safety rules that adult apparel does not.
- Measurement point consistency. A pre-shipment inspection for apparel should measure specific points (chest, length, sleeve, waist) against your spec sheet with a stated tolerance, not just a visual check.
Keeping the spec intact from China
The gap between "approved sample" and "shipped production" is where apparel sourcing most often goes wrong — a fabric substitution or a grading drift that only shows up once units are measured against the tech pack. LifaSourcing.com coordinates tech pack review, fit sample approval, and measurement-point inspection through quality control coordination and sample coordination, so what ships matches what you signed off on.
Mistakes this guide prevents
- Approving a design without a full tech pack. A photo or sketch alone leaves too much room for factory interpretation.
- Skipping wash testing before finalizing size specs. Post-wash shrinkage can undo a carefully fitted sample.
- Grading to full size range before approving one fit sample. Fix the base size first; grading errors compound across every size after.
- Assuming one label format works for every destination market. Fiber content and care labeling rules differ by country.